Mary Katrantzou Will Have You Know That Prints Are Flattering; Roland Mouret to Debut Shoes

• Roland Mouret announced that he’s starting a footwear line, which will be available next season. [Grazia]

• Mary Katrantzou on her digital prints: ”With print, it is about educating the customer to try it on and see what it does with the silhouette. For me, with print, it is being really flattering on the woman, trying to do with print what a black dress would do onto their body. And it works!” [NYT]

• Kanye West was evidently being hilarious at the Mark Fast show (well, at least Zara Martin made it look that way). [Catwalk Queen]

• Backstage at Mulberry, Elizabeth Olsen said, “I love London style. I want to be a British schoolboy. There’s nothing better than a navy fitted blazer.” [Vogue UK]

• This season, New York’s runways were the most diverse they’ve been since 2008 —  20 percent of the models booked for Fashion Week shows were non-white. [Jezebel]

• Nicki Hilton weighs in on fall 2012 runways: “I dislike the whole neon thing. And I’m a leather fanatic, so I love just the leather tops, dresses, pants, and all of that.” [Elle]

• Beyoncé and Jay-Z made their first public appearance together since Blue’s birth at the New York Knicks game last night. [Just Jared]

• The International Palladium Board has teamed with the British Fashion Council to sponsor a jewelry competition among ten designers. [Vogue]

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Filed Under: mary katrantzou ,kanye west ,elizabeth olsen ,zara martin ,rouland mouret ,loose threads ,nicky hilton ,model tracker ,mulberry ,london fashion week fall 2012

Issa London Fall 2012 Runway Recap

Designer Daniella Helayel of  ISSA London made major waves stateside when Kate Middleton chose to wear ISSA for her engagement portrait.

 BUY: Issa at Shopbop

If the Duchess of Cambridge gets her groove on, we may be seeing her in one of Issa London’s rich colorations and deftly drawn prints inspired from a Trans-Siberian journey from Moscow to the Forbidden City in Beijing. Any woman can find ease and style …

Original Post at Issa London Fall 2012 Runway Recap

Watch the Topshop Unique Show Live at 10 a.m.

Starting at 10 a.m. today, watch the Topshop Unique show live from London’s Topshop Showspace.

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Filed Under: london fashion week fall 2012

Critics Praise Proenza Schouler’s Daring Show, Differ on Ralph Lauren

THE HITS:

Proenza Schouler

• “The silhouette at Proenza Schouler was more extreme: a boxy jacket in white piqué with an asymmetrical front worn with wide-leg trousers. It was a cool look, hinting of a Japanese influence.” [NYT]

•  “This was a daring show, in which they proposed new silhouettes … [leather weaving] was astounding … The remarkable thing about the show was its evolution … Their confidence is persuasive, and so is their skill.” [Style.com]

•  “[A] powerful sportswear statement … [The separates] were challenging as well, those voluminous proportions not for the faint of heart … What could not be overstated were the extraordinary fabrics … Seeing clothes so polished and expensive-looking still convey a street attitude is what made it so fabulous.” [WWD]

•  “[McCollough and Hernandez] built a truly engrossing and detailed collection — one that is sure to be considered a benchmark of the season…they are no flash in the pan mavericks, but a perfectly matched pair seeking to create a singular vision of fresh originality.” [Vogue UK]

•  “New wave karate kid at its best! [A]ll earning the Proenza boys a black belt with the editorial set.” [Fashion Week Daily]

See the Full Fall 2012 Proenza Schouler Collection.

Calvin Klein

•  “The collection was essentially about the hourglass shape, done gracefully … But in the end, as beautiful as his clothes were, they didn’t give you much more than a sense of control … [A skirt and a dress made in wide panels] were compelling.” [NYT]

•  “[A] strong collection that keyed into the season’s new, bigger volumes … [E]ven without the game of peekaboo, these otherwise modest silhouettes looked sexy. That was Costa’s real accomplishment today.” [Style.com]

•  “[A] bravura display of technical skill, path-breaking draping and advanced fabrics … [the collection imparted] the notion that radically simplified forms are often the most beautiful…the finest expression of modern minimalism with a subtle historic twist that we’ve seen in many seasons. Yes, that good.” [Fashion Wire Daily]

•  “[A] robust collection, in terms of fabric and silhouette … an expected minimalist effort from the impenetrably consistent Costa.” [Vogue UK]

•   ” [A]ppealing clothes in ultrafeminine silhouettes … His use of thick wools resulted in several great coats, but a few of the dresses in similar fabrics looked heavy … The overall effect was indeed powerful, but the reality of the clothes had a softer side.” [Vogue UK]

•   “[T]hese are clothes to think about … Costa’s fabric research, always impressive, paid off big-time  … [The last three noir dresses] made the strongest statement about the new look of luxury. Opulent? Not a bit.” [Fashion Week Daily]

See the Full Fall 2012 Calvin Klein Collection.

L’Wren Scott

•  “[L'Wren Scott] has loosened up … there is a satisfying eclectic mix … There was more variety in her prints, and she had lovely velvets … But the collection’s real merit was in its confident use of color as a medium.” [NYT]

•  “The clothes seemed rich … She’s come a very long way from making a few fab body-hugging dresses and jeans that make your legs look a mile long … The trick now will be to maintain her distinct point of view. So far, so good.” [Style.com]

•  “Her very rich collection delivered it all — even caviar, which, she playfully noted, was served for lunch to correspond with her newest dresses with caviar beading.” [WWD]

•  “The clothes had a distinctly vintage flavour with velvets, capes, furs and rich-hued silks…The designer turned out a strong collection of wearable, elegant dresses.” [Vogue UK]

See the Full Fall 2012 L’Wren Scott Collection.

MIXED:

Ralph Lauren

•  “You mean Downton Abbey isn’t Ralph Lauren’s ancestral home? He does the look so well … Oh, Mr. Lauren, you do amaze as you entertain — you are an exceedingly good fashion designer … [The dark plain clothes] are worth putting on a shopping list.” [NYT]

•  “[T]his felt like Lauren revisiting and reworking his own oeuvre … The trip down memory lane wasn’t one of the designer’s blockbusters, but it produced some strong outerwear … the evening looks as a whole felt modern.” [Style.com]

•  “[A] smoothly elegant collection … Much of the tailoring was very masculine and all the better for it…Lauren also injected some smartly done edge…[But] the whole collection came across as a tad too restrained. The models did look particularly poised and coiffed and hyper elegant, but there was little feeling of new.” [Fashion Wire Daily]

•  “In a season of major fabric awareness, his combinations felt natural and uncontrived … While the styling played to the Downton nattiness, the pieces were utterly versatile…curve-hugging dresses and gowns [embodied a] glorious combination of elegant and sexy.” [WWD]

•  “Well cut and draped cashmere double-breasted overcoats were elegant and a number of fitted checked trouser suits struck a chord … [A] stunning Art Deco gold gown swaggered rather than flowed because of its weight.” [Vogue UK]

See the Full Fall 2012 Ralph Lauren Collection.

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Filed Under: other critics ,ralph lauren ,l’wren scott ,calvin klein ,proenza schouler ,fall 2012 ,new york fashion week

Frida Gustavsson Is Wednesday’s Top Model

After relying on the exacting eye of top casting director Ashley Brokaw for several seasons, Proenza Schouler hired Patrizia Pilotti instead (Brokaw dropped the label to focus exclusively on the fall 2012 Prada and Balenciaga shows). Pilotti selected Argentinian newcomer at Next Models, Melissa Stasiuk, to kick things off, while Meghan Collison closed. In other runway news, Aymeline Valade scored the first look at Reed Krakoff, and this season’s top face so far, Kati Nescher, opened and closed for J. Mendel. But it’s Frida Gustavsson who takes the win for yesterday: the Swede opened and closed for Anna Sui, on top of her closing slot at Michael Kors in the morning. See all these looks, and more, in the slideshow ahead.

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Filed Under: new york fashion week fall 2012 ,models ,slideshow ,fashion shows ,img models ,frida gustavsson ,model tracker

Fug Girls: Fleshy Fun and Lil’ Kim at The Blonds

The Blonds is always the most celebratory way to end (well, almost) Fashion Week: Everybody is thrilled to be there and full of raucous energy and even more raucous costumes. At the show Wednesday night, we saw everything from a dude with a homemade patchwork stuffed animal that matched his pants, to a man with eight-inch hair spikes in all directions, to a woman wearing black nipple pasties and a g-string. And even when the aforementioned woman made a point of jumping up and down to show her friend how well her pastie worked, the vibe managed to be exuberant and carefree instead of “Holy hell, that is a lot of underboob.”

Indeed, Noted Fashion Photographer Nigel Barker seemed to be having the time of his life in the front row, even though there was a giant motorcycle parked directly in front of his, J. Alexander’s, and Jay Manuel’s seats. Nigel smiled appreciatively at the scantily clad female models in that slow, dreamy way of his (we can hear the purr now: “Hello ladies”), while the Jays nodded studiously next to a quiet Robert Verdi. At the very last second, before the house lights went down, an orgy of flashbulbs heralded the arrival of none other than Lil’ Kim, in a tight white skirt, flesh-colored bodice (we are in fact fairly sure it was a bodice, and not flesh-colored flesh), and white fur epaulets—no pasties for her this go-round, which is frankly somewhat disappointing. She wasn’t doing interviews, but she did a whole lot of hugging, and the assembled masses whooped as soon as she walked in the door. We may have unleashed a delighted expletive. We’re not telling.

Across from Kim was American Idol’s Adam Lambert, in a green leopard manicure, leather, and amber contacts that made him look like the poster to Cats. “I just wanted to punch them up a bit,” he said of his eyes. “The Blonds are imaginative and they’re not afraid to break the rules, and I think we’re kindred that way.” We wondered which former Idol contestant—or judge—he might want to seize and treat to a Blonds-style makeover. He blinked. “I’m just here to see the Blonds,” he said. “American Idol was three years ago. It’s a beautiful, nostalgic, distant memory.” Okay, fair enough. But the correct answer is, of course, “Randy Jackson.”

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Filed Under: new york fugging city ,fashion week ,designers ,new york fashion week ,the blonds ,adam lambert ,lil kim

Our Favorite Street Style From New York Fashion Week, Day Four

Yesterday was so cold we felt bad even sending a photographer out to shoot show-goers who gave up a Sunday for fashion. However, the ever-stylish crowd wrapped themselves in fur and soldiered on. Even the models — who never seem to be dressed warmly enough, considering their lack of insulating body fat — piled on the layers. Bright wools livened up the day, but there were far fewer hats than seemed necessary.  Click through our slideshow to see Jenna Lyons, Brad Goreski, Joanna Hillman, Nathalie Joos, and many others braving the icy wind.

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Filed Under: scene stealers ,new york fashion week fall 2012 ,street style ,slideshow

New Fall 2012 Shows: Diane Von Furstenberg, Timo Weiland, Thakoon, and More

With the conclusion of tonight’s shows, we’ve hit the halfway point here in New York. Four days down, four days to go, not that we’re counting. From today’s runways, Diane Von Furstenberg showed lightly draped embroidered with jigsaw piece patterns (those with Diane on their gift lists, perhaps consider this — because, you know, fashion folk love cats). In one of the brighter outings so far, Thakoon‘s collection popped with ruched reds and pinks; Timo Weiland‘s show included two hit music video bad-boy boyfriends: Bradley Soileau, Lana Del Rey’s "Born To Die" paramour, and Dudley O’Shaughnessy, Rihanna’s co-star in "We Found Love." See these three collections in full alongside all lots more shows, close-ups, front row lineups, and party photos.

RUNWAY

• Behnaz Sarafpour
• Candela
• Carlos Campos

• Carmen Marc Valvo
• Catherine Malandrino Black Label
• Correll Correll
• Custo Barcelona
• Diane Von Furstenberg
• DKNY
• Edun
• Giulietta
• Katya Leonovich
• Kevork Kiledjian
• Patrik Ervell
• Rubin Chapelle
• Sally LaPointe
• Siki Im
• Thakoon
• Timo Weiland
• Tommy Hilfiger
• Tracy Reese
• Venexiana
• Y-3
• Zac Posen

DETAILS

• Custo Barcelona
• Derek Lam
• Diane von Furstenberg
• DKNY
• Edun
• Miguel Adrover
• Thakoon
• Tommy Hilfiger
• Y-3
• Zac Posen

BACKSTAGE & PARTIES

• Altuzarra
• BCBG Max Azria
• Derek Lam
• Nylon Magazine Party
• Simon Spurr
• Thakoon
• Y-3
• Zac Posen

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Filed Under: new york fashion week fall 2012 ,designers

Fashion Week Fashion Week Style Diaries: Paper Magazine’s Mickey Boardman, Day Four

For today’s Style Diaries, Paper magazine’s Mickey Boardman’s business-glam look returns. This time, he combined a Michael Kors suit, a Suno bejeweled top, Steve Madden sequined slippers, and a Logo by Lori Goldstein for QVC necklace. Mr. Mickey is looking forward to attending Diane Von Furstenberg’s, show today, a woman who he cites as his “style idol,” and calls the “the hardest working princess in show business.” Afterward, he will be heading to the Colette and the Cobrasnake dinner at Shake Shack to celebrate a new Vans collaboration over mushroom burgers. 

On Mickey: Steve Madden shoes, Selima glasses, Michael Kors suit, Suno top, Logo by Lori Goldstein for QVC necklace, Marc Jacobs coat, and Stella McCartney bag.
About the look: “I don’t change bags everyday. I have this anxiety every time I change bags like, ‘What did I forget? Did I leave my keys in the other bag?’ So I’m just sticking with this one. I usually just switch between my two favorite Stella McCartney bags, but I might pull out a Fendi by the end of the week.” 

See more: Outfit from days one, two, and three.

See more of Mickey’s fashion week adventures at papermag.com.

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Filed Under: style diaries ,fashion shows ,new york fashion week fall 2012 ,mickey boardman ,paper magazine

New Fall 2012 Shows: Band of Outsiders, Alexander Wang, Altuzarra, and More

There’s been a lot of mood black on the runways so far this New York Fashion Week, so some of today’s highlights came from the other end of the color palette. Alexander Wang showed shiny structured pieces that would work perfectly with last season’s motorcycle helmets, Joseph Altuzarra mixed crisp white collars and (furry) trims with intricate embroidery and gold paillettes, and Band of Outsiders‘ Scott Sternberg seemed to have taken inspiration from a day’s clear skies over A Little House on the Prairie. See these shows and many more — including today’s Top Model alum on the runway, cycle 12′s champ Teyona (with cocktail sticks stuck on her face, it would seem) walking for Miguel Adrover — in our updated galleries of all this season’s shows.

RUNWAY
• Academy of Art
• Alexander Wang
• Altuzarra

• Band of Outsiders
• Bespoken
• Christian Siriano
• Concept Korea
• DKNY Men
• Erickson Beamon
• Erin by Erin Fetherston
• Fabiola Arias
• Gregory Parkinson
• Hervé Léger
• Katie Gallagher
• L.A.M.B.
• Mara Hoffman
• Miguel Adrover
• Monika Chiang
• Monique Lhuillier
• N.Hoolywood
• Nonoo
• Prabal Gurung
• Tibi
• VPL
• Wes Gordon
• Yuna Yang

DETAILS
• Alexander Wang
• Christian Siriano
• Lacoste
• Prabal Gurung
• Ruffian
• VPL

BACKSTAGE & PARTIES

• Alexander Wang
• Altuzarra
• Band of Outsiders
• BLK DNM and Purple Magazine Party
• Christian Siriano
• Glamour Magazine Party
• Hervé Léger
• Mara Hoffman
• Nicole Miller
• Prabal Gurung
• Rachel Zoe

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Filed Under: new york fashion week fall 2012 ,designers